Walk into any of the sprawling red-and-yellow department stores along the Spintex Road or the Tema motorway on a Saturday afternoon. The first thing that strikes you is the quiet. Nobody is shouting over the price of a blender. Nobody is sizing up your shoes to decide whether to quote you two hundred cedis or three hundred and fifty. A mother pushes a metal trolley past towering shelves of plastic bins, LED bulbs, and silicone kitchenware. Every item wears a printed barcode. At the till, a young Ghanaian cashier scans the label. The point-of-sale terminal chirps, a thermal receipt rolls out, and the customer steps back into the heat. Three kilometres away, inside a traditional stall at Makola or Ashaiman, a very different transaction unfolds.
The barcode and the brown notebook

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